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The habanero version added one more note of complexity. I preferred to preserve stomach space for the stellar meats. The pie was excellent, topped with candied pecans, with a syrupy filling, and a satisfying crust. My father ordered a peach cobbler, which was a little too pasty, and could have used more peaches. King's menu with fried green tomatoes, crusted with graham cracker and cornmeal and served with caramelized onions, cream cheese and strawberry jam. Fun and tasty, but we're talking barbecue.

Baby back ribs are Salt lick bbq las vegas tender, literally falling off the bone. You can order them dry to focus on rubbed-on spices rather than the mostly sweet, not-so-spicy sauce. BBQ Chicken is just a grilled breast, masquerading under that sauce, while pulled pork is tender and juicy. Though it's equally corny in theme, Gilley's walks the walk. There are steaks and fried chicken, but barbecue is the foundation. I might favor the gooey ribs of Tennessee over the smoky offerings from Texas, but Gilley's gets the prize everywhere else. Its hot links are the best I've ever tasted. The side dishes also excel, particularly mac 'n' cheese and sweet, crisp coleslaw.

And there's a non-barbecue gem on the menu: